15mm American Revolution Project: Artillery

With a resurgence into the American Revolution, I have dusted off my unpainted 15mm AWI forces and started to paint them.  Up first are all of the artillery for the main combatants: Continental, French, British, and Hessian. 

Here's the complete artillery painted to date, including guns, crew, artillery limbers, and wagons. 

The Hessian artillery have the Yellow guns.  The Hessian artillerists are dressed in blue jackets with white vests and trousers.  The French artillery have the sky blue guns.  The French artillerists are dressed in navy blue jackets with red vests and trousers.     

The British artillery have the red guns.  The British artillerists will be dressed in blue jackets with red trim and white trousers.  The Continental artillery have a variety of colored guns including olive green, brown, and gray.  The Continental artillerists will be dressed in a variety of colored outfits.  Some in jackets of navy blue, black, and browns. 

Signs, Signs and more Signs...

Since I've had such a positive response to my Zombie terrain pics, including all of the signs, here are the signs that I have. You'll notice that most of the signs were customized for the city of West Chester.

I added two, 3-D Cow Miniatures painting the sign, just like you see in the real world.  

Victoria's Secret; Why not?

Here's another good use for those magnetic advertisements usually attached to the front of your yellow pages book.  In any modern/future game, you're always going to have death, taxes, and lawyers. 

Pawn Stores are everywhere.  

We ran one series of scenarios based on the show '24'.  So, I created some signs to be placed on the tabletop.  

Need I say more? The best puns in the world can be found at Hooters.  

I don't know what they're advertising, but I'm sold.  

 Every city has to have their favorite greasy spoon.

That lizard certainly gets around.  He was even spotted in West Chester.

 

Here are the sign files (8.5"x11" .jpg's)

 

Billboard Sheet #1

 Billboard Sheet #2, with some additional Zombie themed signs and barricades

 

Store Signs #1: Some generic and not-so-generic store signs for your city retail buildings.

 

 



Let's get POLITICALLY Correct...

Our local game group has a set of rules, and one of them is not to have political discussions during games. (Or at least we try to keep them extremely limited and civil.)  A couple of us are obvious Democrats while others are staunch Republicans.

So, during our most recent Zombie Apocalypse game, I decided to have some fun with the terrain. (I am so evil sometimes.)

First, I have several billboard frames with metal washers attached.  This allows me to have a multitude of billboards, color printed onto paper and mounted to magnetic sheet that easily 'sticks' to the metal washers on the billboard frame. So, I downloaded a few photos of pro-democratic and/or anti-Republican ads, simply imported them into Microsoft Word, and turned them into billboards.

(Here's the tall billboard made of wood dowels, foam-core board, metal washers, and some 'granny plastic'.)

 

 

(Here's one of the roof top billboards.  The frame is made from bass wood, and the sign board is made from foam-core board and some metal washers.)

 

 

(I always seem to work McDonald's into the Terrain, one way or another.)

 

Then I figured, "what good are billboards if they're aren't matching yard signs to go with them?"  So, I made Obama-Biden yard signs.  They were pretty easy to make.  The sign frame was made from a piece of a metal paper clip, bent into a 'U' shape with two little legs at the end of each U leg, in order to be glued to a base.  The sign was color printed with two signs, side by side, cut out, and then folded in half to make a double-sided sign.  Then this was glued over the metal frame and walla...a yard sign.

 

Needless to say, there were several smiles and chuckles on both sides of the political aisle that night. I even let some of the yard signs go home as souvenirs of the evening.    

Roadside Construction Zone Barrels

I whipped out some of these Construction Zone Barrels for an upcoming Zombie game to add some additional detail to some roadblocks.

 

I constructed these for 28mm miniatures, but you can easily scale them down (or up), depending on your scale of miniatures. (15mm, 20mm and etc.)

 

Here's how I made them (it is pretty simple, really.):

 

List of Materials:

 

5/8" diameter Metal Washer (Bottom)

1/2" diameter wood dowel x 3/4" high

Lego 1x1 round plate: Translucent Yellow or Orange

(You can order them individually through www.Lego.com in the 'Pick a Brick' section.)

White Glue

(Optional standard staple, see below)

 

Also:

Highway Orange Spray Paint

White paint (or white vinyl pinstriping could be used.)

Black spray paint (for base)

(Optional black (or yellow or orange) paint for the light battery box, see below)

1.  Spray paint the base washer black to represent the black rubber barrel ring.
2.  Spray paint the dowels with the highway orange paint.
3.  (optional) Paint the bottom of each round Lego with a bit of black to represent the battery box. (or orange, or yellow, depending on what you're modeling. The ones in my area are black boxes.)
4.  Paint the horizontal white striping on the barrels at about the 1/3 and 2/3 mark of the barrel height. (every 1/4" on the barrel)  "yes, hand-painting straight lines on a round dowel are possible with a steady hand."
5.  Glue the light to one edge of the top of the barrel.
6.  Glue the finished barrel to the washer.
7.  Now you have a lighted construction barrel.

Here is a typical Highway Construction Barrel:

***Some barrels have a molded handle on top.  I chose not to model this for simplicity. However, if you are really anal-retentive, you could easily make two small holes in the top of the barrel (before painting) and put/glue a standard staple in the top, letting it stick out a little to represent the handle.  Then, when you spray paint the barrel, the orange paint will give some thickness to the handle and look like it is molded onto the barrel.  

Not all barrels have to have lights. You can leave them off every other one or more.  Add some construction or warning signs and you've got a good looking detour or roadblock.

Here are the completed barrels with some recently acquired Police/Security Forces. 

I think these barrels will be convincing in my next Zombie Skirmish game.

15mm-20mm-1/72nd Modern vehicles: $5 find at Big Lots

I found these $5 diecast and plastic sets at Big Lots: Army, Police & Rescue

 This one has a small helicopter (10mm-ish), a car (15mm-ish), and a fire truck (15mm-ish).  This set is probably the least useful and didn't purchase it.

 

This one has a helicopter (15mm-ish), a transport truck (20mm-ish), and a 6x6 armored vehicle (15mm or 20mm-ish) similar to a TPz Fuchs APC.  The 2 vehicles will end up in my 20mm modern collection.

 

This one has a helicopter (15mm-ish), a Hard top Humvee (20mm-ish), and a 6x6 armored vehicle (15mm or 20mm-ish) similar to a TPz Fuchs APC.  I'm going to add the two wheeled vehicles to my 20mm police force and zombie eradicators. 

Some Tips on Painting...

I'm trying something new right now, so I thought I'd put down a few thoughts about the strategy for painting miniatures.

Painting 'Now' Technique(s)

I was reading about a different painting technique and decided I'd give it a go on my 28mm wild west figures.  Essentially the process is this:

1.  Prime the miniature black.
2.  Dry brush the figure with white. (black will remain in all the low spots.)
3.  Paint your figure with a layer of color(s).
4. Add a layer of lighter shades over the base color.
5. Dry brush white over the top to highlight the uppermost details.

The result is a figure that shows a better amount of shading and highlighting than I am used to doing. (progress pics to come soon showing the stages.)  The results have eliminated the need to do a dark wash and the shadows are still in the appropriate places.

Painting 'Past' Technique(s)

Here is how I've painted my miniatures in the past:

1.  Prime the miniature. (Black, White, or Gray.  See notes below.)
2.  Paint your figure with a layer of color(s).
3.  Add a layer of dark wash (thinned down black or brown paint and water) to get some shadows in the low spots, folds, and etc.
4.  Add a layer of lighter shades over the base color.
5.  Dry brush white over the top to highlight the uppermost details.

Selection of Primer Color:

Here are a few colors to choose from:

White: All of my early figures, 15mm and some 25mm, were painted white.  This was because they were 15mm ACW and Napoleonic figures, and 25mm Star Wars with brightly colored uniforms.  The white base coat makes the colors come out that much more brighter.

Black: I now paint all of my figures with a black base coat.  I started with my 20mm WWII skirmish figures and carried it through to all of my newer 10mm Zulus, and 28mm ACW, Seminole Indian, and other skirmish figures. The black base coat tends to dull the colors somewhat, giving them a muted/dirty/used tone, exactly what I wanted for those time periods.

Gray: I tried to use a gray base coat, but I just didn't like the results, not to mean that you won't.  It gives a result somewhere between white and black.  Some of the pro-painters swear by it?

Painting 'Future' Technique(s)

With this 'new' technique, at least to me, I've eliminated the dark paint wash step. I keep reading about doing ink washes and I know some live by it.  I'll probably give it a try on some future miniatures and will report on the results.

Here's some pictures of my Deputies in Progress using my 'New technique'.

(Color Schemes are taken from 'Pale Rider')

#1: The Primed Black Figures.

 #2: The figures are dry-brushed white.

#3a: Color being added to the figures, under-layers first.

 #3b: Color being added to the figures, outer layers second.

#4: Additional lighter shades & highlights.

#5: Final shading. (Coming Soon.)

#6: Bases, flocking and details. (Coming Soon.) 

Cheap flight stands for your 20mm aerial vehicles

I think I accidentally found an inexpensive way to display my 20mm (1/72nd) helicopters and aircraft on the gaming table. It should also work for other scales as well including 15mm, 10mm, and etc.  (Probably not so good for larger, 28mm or 1/43rd scale aircraft.)

When I run 20mm games (Modern, Vietnam, WWII), I prefer to have aircraft that can be brought onto the table, even if for the brief moment that it affects the board of play.

I was using a simple, bulky wood block (for stability) with a hole in it to hold an expandable, magnetic holder. (Used for picking up small, magnetic, metal parts)  However, I hate the look of it on the table.

My recent discovery uses the same magnetic 'wand' (about $2+ at most stores), but gets rid of the wood block.  In it's place is an inexpensive, short camera tripod with a screw attachment. (The one I found, I found at the Dollar Tree for $1.)

The camera tripod is on the left, the magnetic 'wand' is laying in front, and the two of them put together are on the right.   To connect them, I unscrew the end cap off of the wand and remove the pocket holder clip.  (Put it in your bit's box for other uses.) The remaining, threaded hole is too small for the tripod screw.  So, I drill out the hole so that it is slightly smaller than the screw.  I then firmly screw the tripod into the end of the wand, making my own thread grooves.  The hole could always be drilled larger, and simple glue or epoxy the screw into place. (Make sure the wand is extended so you don't accidentally glue the assembly closed.) The completed assembly can also be tilted slightly if desired, but because of the center of gravity, a vertical orientation is more desirable.

Because the 'wands' magnet is usually not too strong, I add a 3mm thick by 1/2" diameter 'super' magnet that I picked up at Michael's for about $4 (6 pack).  I have steel washers glued (CA glue) to the underside of all my aircraft to complete the assembly.

Here are some examples of my modern 20mm (1/72nd) aircraft up on their platforms.

Here's a diecast 'Forces of Valour' Blackhawk (L) and a plastic Apache Kit (R).

Here's the Apache at a declining, attack angle.

(Not recommended for most, but this is a lightweight plastic kit.)

Here's a diecast 'Forces of Valour' Desert Hawk (L) and a diecast 'Forces of Valour' Blackhawk (R).

Here's a diecast 'Forces of Valour' Desert Hawk (L) and the plastic Apache (R).

Here's a recently painted 'cheap, plastic toy' Harrier Jet (L) and a Blackhawk down on the deck (R).

Again, the Harrier Jet (L) and a diecast Predator Drone (R).

I can't forget about my A-10 Warthog! 

(This one took out a building and the Insurgents hiding inside, during close support of ground units.)

I also have an V-22 Osprey, but it's not pictured. Lastly, all of my Huey's are currently under construction to be used for the Vietnam games and other 1980's games such as the invasion of Grenada and etc.. 

(Yes, my games tend not to be too boring with these assets available.)

New McDonald's Toys For Star Wars & Sci-Fi Terrain Pieces

McDonald's just issued a new toy that is out now and for the next few weeks (along with some other similiar toys) to coincide with the release of Star Wars, Episode I, The Phantom Menace in 3D.

The toy is a mechanical spinning top, modelled after one of a pod-racer's two engines.  Here are some uses I'm foreseeing:

1.  Use the 'engine' piece horizontally, as an engine for a kitbashed starfighter or shuttlecraft.  I think you could combine 2 or more of these onto a craft of some type, in anything from 15mm to 28mm.

2.  Use the 'engine' piece vertically, as a generator, moisture vaporator, communication array, or some other piece of SW technology or equipment.  Just mount it on a base, spray it grey, add some details and you're ready to go.

3.  Use the short, 'top' piece with the flat side down as a fusion generator or other piece of technology.  Add a few hoses, cables, and such, and you're ready to recharge or refuel a vehicle in a hanger bay.

I think I may have to go pick some up to add to my Star Wars terrain box because I'm never going to be able to pry them out of my son's hands long enough to 'borrow them'.  I grabbed them just long enough to snap the two pics before he was asking me (demanding) them back before they ended up as terrain.