20mm Modern 'UN' forces.

I've mentioned my 20mm Modern UN forces in passing blog posts for some of my modern miniature games, but never really posted pics of the forces in their entirety.

These UN forces make great additions to my games as peacekeepers and such; delivering convoys of food and aid, manning a road checkpoint, or just trying to keep the peace in a troubled neighborhood.

The forces are composed of a variety of vehicles and trucks that one might expect to be found around the world.  I think the troops I painted were generic Russian infantry with AK-47's and light gear, painted with the typical light blue beret to distinguish them as peacekeepers.

 

The sum total of my United Nations (UN) forces.

 

Here's some of the peacekeepers themselves.  I had the extra 1/72nd scale Russian plastic infantry figures, so why not paint them up and put them to some good use.

Here's a modified Corgi Humvee and an M113.  Note the 'UN' flag on the M113. 

Here's some repainted Matchbox Landrover 4x4's.

More repainted Matchboxes, this time Ford Expedition SUV's.

 The 'UN' version (left) of the armed Humvee (right) to help with convoy security & protection.

Side by side view of the same Forces of Valour 1/72nd scale M113.  For the 'UN' conversion, the side 'baggage' and cages was removed and saved.  The armor and blast shield around the gunner position was removed.  The antennae was re-purposed for the UN flag.  Some of the removed baggage was added back to the top of the vehicle.

Here are my UN forces in action, escorting a convoy of food through an Iraqi neighborhood.

At this point in the game, a US squad and Humvee from a road checkpoint rushes to the rescue of the UN convoy being overrun by Jihadist's.

20mm Modern UK Utility Trucks

Since there's been some interest in my 20mm UK modern vehicles, I'll show you how I did it as a semi-tutorial. You may need to fill in some of the blanks in between steps. This technique can really be used to convert any of your favorite die-cast vehicles into a usable military vehicle.

 

The Third in line are my Modern UK Landrover Transport Vehicles. I got tired of trying to find them online and in stock, so I decided to make some myself. (Of course, having more time than money on hand helps as well.) Every convoy or force needs some generic vehicles for guests, dignitaries, news crews, journalists, and etc. 

 

Materials: Matchbox vehicle, appropriate paint, white glue, super glue or plastic's glue, paper towel (Bounty, etc..), plasticard or styrene sheet, plastic rod (about 1/16" diameter), balsa wood, Granny plastic mesh, x-acto knife, and a dremel with cutoff wheel.

 

 Vehicle 1: Landrover 4x4 off-road type vehicle.

Step 1:

The vehicle build begins with a Matchbox Landrover Sport. (There are several colors to choose from, but it doesn't really matter since it will be painted.)

 

Step 2:

Disassemble the vehicle cutting around the rivets on the bottom of the vehicle. This makes it soooo much easier and cleaner to work on and paint.

 

Step 3:

The vehicle is primed. The Body with a sand color and the base with black. The gear on top of the roof will be painted later as well as the front, rear, and roof lights.  The last detail will be any insignia or unit stencilling, if required.  

 

 

Step 4:

To give a couple of them a more 'protected' and 'military' look, I cut pieces of plastic granny mesh to fit the windows and front grill.  Now it looks like it can offer a slight amount of protection to the occupants when travelling down a crowded street. 

Step 5:

The last step is to glue the final assemblies together.

 

When I finish the last step, I will post some final pics.

Vehicle 2: Landrover urban transport type vehicle.

Step 1:

The vehicle build begins with a Matchbox Landrover SUV. (There are several colors to choose from, but it doesn't really matter since it will be painted.)

Step 2:

Disassemble the vehicle cutting around the rivets on the bottom of the vehicle. This makes it soooo much easier and cleaner to work on and paint.

 

 

Step 3:

The vehicle is primed. The Body with a sand color and the base with black.  The front and rear lights will be painted next. The last detail will be any insignia or unit stencilling, if required. 

Step 4:

The last step is to glue the final assemblies together.

 

When I finish the last step, I will post some final pics.

 

Note, for other forces, this same technique can be used to create equal results. 

Here's a white painted Landrover with 'UN' stencilling:

"UN" Landrover 4x4's 

"UN" Expedition SUV's

20mm Modern Landrover WMIK

Since there's been some interest in my 20mm UK modern vehicles, I'll show you how I did it as a semi-tutorial. You may need to fill in some of the blanks in between steps. This technique can really be used to convert any of your favorite die-cast vehicles into a usable military vehicle.

 

The Second is the Modern UK Landrover WMIK. I got tired of trying to find one online and in stock, so I decided to make some myself. (Of course, having more time than money on hand helps as well.)

 

Materials: Matchbox vehicle, appropriate paint, white glue, super glue or plastic's glue, paper towel (Bounty, etc..), plasticard or styrene sheet, balsa wood, x-acto knife, and a dremel with cutoff wheel.

Step 1:

The vehicle build begins with a Matchbox Landrover 4x4 off-road vehicle. (There are several colors to choose from, but it doesn't really matter since it will be painted.)

 

Step 2:

Disassemble the vehicle cutting around the rivets on the bottom of the vehicle. This makes it soooo much easier and cleaner to work on and paint.  I built 4 of these, with two different versions.  On 2 of them, I removed the wheel from the hood assembly and filled in the round hole with a piece of plasticard.  On the black plastic roll cage assembly, I removed some of the 'baggage' to be re-used later. 

Step 3:

Details are added.

Left Vehicle: 

(A) Plasticard is used to cover the hole in the front hood.

(B) A rolled up piece of tissue is glued in place at the rear of the front hood.  A piece of 'baggage' is glued in front of it, to semi-hide the plasticard repair.

(C) Another, longer rolled up piece of tissue is glued on the roll cage behind the driver. 

(D) Additional tissue is cut to fit the rear gunner station, then coated in watered-down white glue and glued in place. I tried to keep the netting to a minimum so as not to interfere with crew members when I add them.

(E) The cut off tire is re-glued to the left side of the vehicle. 

 

Right Vehicle:

(A) A piece of 'baggage' is glued to the right of the spare tire on the hood.

(B) A longer rolled up piece of tissue is glued on the roll cage behind the driver.

(c) Additional tissue is cut to fit the rear gunner station, then coated in watered-down white glue and glued in place.

(D) Other 'baggage' could be glued to the sides of the vehicle.  I made some additional ones cut and shaped out of balsa wood.   These included extra ammo boxes and gasoline cans.   

Step 4:

Here, the left and right vehicles are reversed, but they have been given their coat of paint.  The body was sprayed with a sand color and the base black.

 

Step 5:

The last step is to glue the final assemblies together.

 

Step 6:

I still have to finish stenciling and weathering the vehicle, but that is coming shortly. I also ordered some UK WMIK crews w/guns from Liberation miniatures which haven't been fitted to the vehicles yet or painted.

 

Here's a couple of pictures showing what I was building from:

 

20mm Modern UK Landrover Snatch

Since there's been some interest in my 20mm UK modern vehicles, I'll show you how I did it as a semi-tutorial.  You may need to fill in some of the blanks in between steps. This technique can really be used to convert any of your favorite die-cast vehicles into a usable military vehicle.


The First is the Modern UK Landrover Snatch.  I got tired of trying to find one online and in stock, so I decided to make some myself. (Of course, having more time than money on hand helps as well.)

Materials: Matchbox vehicle, appropriate paint, white glue, super glue or plastic's glue, paper towel (Bounty, etc..), plasticard or styrene sheet, plastic rod (about 1/16" diameter), balsa wood, Granny plastic mesh, x-acto knife, and a dremel with cutoff wheel.

 Step 1:

The vehicle build begins with a Matchbox Landrover Sport. (There are several colors to choose from, but it doesn't really matter since it will be painted.)

 

 

 Step 2:

Disassemble the vehicle cutting around the rivets on the bottom of the vehicle.  This makes it soooo much easier and cleaner to work on and paint.

 

 

Step 3:

(A) Using the dremel, remove the top portion of the cab of the Landrover and sand flat.  

(B) Cut a sizable hole in the plastic windshield assembly.

(C) Remove the rear 'spare wheel' from the black plastic frame assembly and save for future use.

(D) With the dremel, remove the exhaust vent on the left side front hood of the vehicle.  

Step 4:

Plastic card or styrene (I use spent gift cards, credit cards, and/or sample cards sent in the mail) can be used to 'box' in the rear, sides and top of the Landrover snatch.  The roof-top framed/armored firing position is large enough for the bases of my 20mm figures to fit into.  I glued a 'platform' to the top of the inside truck frame to give a more suitable firing platform for the miniature to rest. Keep the vehicle disassembled until the final painting is complete before gluing the assemblies together.

 

Step 5:

(A) The rear panel has lines scribed into it with an x-acto knife for the rear access door and panels.

(B) A piece of balsa wood was added to the top to complete the firing position.

(C) Using the plastic rod, a new exhaust vent was created to be glued to the right side hood position. (To simplify the process, you could leave the molded on exhaust stack on the left side.)   My plastic rod is actually a section of leftover plastic sprue.  Using a candle, I heat the sprue over the flame (not in the flame) until soft and can be gently stretched apart into a thinner plastic rod of the needed diameter.  I continue to heat and bend the center section to the appropriate angle, and then cut it to fit.  Glue the section to the body. 

Step 6:

The vehicle is primed.  The Body with a sand color and the base with black.   Paper towel/tissue has been cut to fit over the sides, rear and top as shown.  Then, brush watered-down glue onto the tissue, and glue to the vehicle. Smaller tissue panels were cut for the two doors and done the same way.  Apply another coat of paint to turn the tissue into a canvas/netting covering. 

 

Step 7:

To finish the vehicle, I cut some of the plastic granny mesh to fit the front and side windows and across the front grill. 

 

Step 8:

The last step is to glue the final assemblies together. 

 

Step 9:

I still have to finish stenciling the vehicle, but that is coming shortly.  

 

Here's a couple of pictures showing what I was building from.

6mm Star Wars "Battle of Hoth"

Here's some pics of my 6mm Battle of Hoth miniatures. I use a home-brew set of rules, but also use the WEG (West End Games) edition of 'Battle of Hoth".

The AT-AT's are Ertyl Models. Each model also comes with 2 snowspeeders and a Rebel Golan Turret.  The Shield Generator in the lower right is custom made. The Snowspeeders have a hole drilled through them to slide up and down on the wire, mounted to a metal washer and nut. A small piece of foam below the speeder keeps it at the desired height.

The Rebel Hoth troopers are modified 6mm Epic Eldar, with their cone-shaped heads re-sculpted (a nip and tuck here and there) to resemble the Rebel Hoth 'Kepi'.   

The Imperial Snowtroopers are also modified 6mm Epic Eldar.  Again, with the heads re-shaped to resemble Imperial troops.

I needed a 'downed' rebel pilot or a few, so I converted some more epic.  

In addition to the snowspeeder models that came with the walkers, I also have the Micromachine Snowspeeders which are identical in size.

 

For additional Rebel and Imperial troops, you can also find them in the Rebel Transport/Echo Base model from Ertyl. It also comes with a model of the Rebel Transport and a Millenium Falcon. 

 

15mm-20mm-1/72nd Modern vehicles: $5 find at Big Lots

I found these $5 diecast and plastic sets at Big Lots: Army, Police & Rescue

 This one has a small helicopter (10mm-ish), a car (15mm-ish), and a fire truck (15mm-ish).  This set is probably the least useful and didn't purchase it.

 

This one has a helicopter (15mm-ish), a transport truck (20mm-ish), and a 6x6 armored vehicle (15mm or 20mm-ish) similar to a TPz Fuchs APC.  The 2 vehicles will end up in my 20mm modern collection.

 

This one has a helicopter (15mm-ish), a Hard top Humvee (20mm-ish), and a 6x6 armored vehicle (15mm or 20mm-ish) similar to a TPz Fuchs APC.  I'm going to add the two wheeled vehicles to my 20mm police force and zombie eradicators. 

20mm Modern MCV-80 UK Warrior

In order to compliment my detachment of modern British soldiers for duty in Iraq and Afghanistan 20mm games, I have finally completed two Warriors (1/72 plastic kits).  Now I can move some of the British troops around the table-top in Armored Style.

 I painted one up in typical desert/invasion colors.  The other I painted with an interesting camouflage pattern based on an existing Warrior picture I found.  I still have to add some highlighting to both pieces.  

 To make things a little bit more interesting, I've been toying with the idea of using the plastic canvas material (10 squares per inch) to make inexpensive RPG skirts.  There aren't many commercially available options and they are usually made from etched metal and run a small fortune to buy.

I simply cut out the appropriate shapes, and removed some of the vertical ribs (this is the most time consuming part of the process) to give it the horizontal lines that most RPG skirts have.  One sheet cost me $0.99, and should be able to provide enough skirting for all of my vehicles. Look at some existing photographs. (see below)

An existing MCV-80 Warrior in Iraq.

I cut a total of 6 pieces of RPG skirting...one for each side, one for the rear, one for the front, and one for each side of the turret. I added short pieces of square plastic styrene strip to the back of the skirting so that it was offset from the hull by about 3/32". (except for the front piece.)

  

Side View



 The other side.

 The rear.

The front.

Overall, I like the addition of the skirting and may have to add some to my U.S. vehicles.

Here comes the Clone Army to a quadrant near you...

Here are some pictures of my Clone army to date.

 These are all of the larger vehicles. The black base vehicles are all from WOTC.  The AT-RT's (left) are Micromachine/Titanium Toy miniatures.  The Assault Tank (left) is a Transformer/vehicle.  The AT-TE (right) is another Transformer/vehicle while the other AT-TE (center) is an Action Fleet vehicle.  The Turbo Tank (Rear) is a Play set.  The Republic Gunship/Transport (center) is another transformer/Vehicles.  The other 2 gunships (left and right rear)  are metal die-cast Titanium vehicles.     

 These are all of my Clone Troopers (WOTC), including specialists, commandos and etc. 

Here are more of my Jedi Knights (WOTC), in addition to all of the metal ones that I have. I certainly have enough Jedi for the Battle of Geonosis!